A Return to Palermo—COVID Style

 For those who followed our October travels through Sicily, I am sure you were either sick of me writing about the incredible food at every stop along the way or your mouth was watering as you read each paragraph. I thought I would catch everyone up on my near-obsession with Sicilian cuisine, in between my stressing about COVID, booster-shots and the crazy state of the world. 

First, I got a pasta maker.  Fortunately, my birthday is in November and while I never know what to suggest to my husband to get me for my birthday, this year I had a request—and he didn’t disappoint.  Unfortunately, I haven’t used it because of my stressing about COVID, booster-shots and the crazy state of the world-and then add in a very COVID Christmas.  

Second, I found a recipe that nearly replicated the exquisite pasta I ate on our first night in Palermo called,  Pasta Fresca con Sarde or Fresh Pasta with Sardines.  (Don’t make a snooty face unless you’ve tried it) Obviously, in my version, the word “fresh” needs to be removed because my pasta maker has not yet come out of its box. 

As COVID affected our ability to celebrate Christmas Eve and The Feast of the Seven Fishes with the entire Italian side of our family, I thought we could regroup with our immediate family and try some different recipes, including a coveted Sicilian pasta recipe I found on the internet that I believed was close to the Palermo meal. And so, for the first time, sardines and anchovies became fishes 5 and 6. When COVID shrunk our Christmas Eve gathering to an even smaller number, my husband looked at me running around serving fishes 1, 2, 3 and 4, to five people, and strongly suggested “basta on the pasta.” While I saw his point, as I questioned whether or not I had enough Tupperware containers for the existing fish left uneaten, I remained undeterred in my quest to replicate this meal.  

When our Christmas Day group was whittled down to only three people, I decided to throw the tenderloin in the freezer, leave the lasagna in the refrigerator and said, “Damn it, fishes 5 and 6 are going to have their day.” 

And they did—and they were magnificent. Here’s the recipe for those who have either been to Sicily and loved the food or am dreaming of going someday once this pandemic is over! Happy holidays everyone and may 2022 be a year when our passports can be dusted off so that new adventures can be experienced once again! 

Fresh Pasta with Sardines

1/2 c. dry white wine

1/4 c. golden raisins

Pinch of Saffron (Optional)

4 1/2 T. Olive oil, plus more, as needed

1 1/2 t. ground fennel seeds

1 1/4 Panko bread crumbs

Salt and Pepper

1 cup (about 1/2) minced, peeled and cored fennel bulbs & keep the fronds (the little, thin leaves)

1 c. Onion, chopped

4 oil-packed anchovy fillets (I used the whole can)

1/4 c. pine nuts, toasted

5 whole sardines, filleted & cut into 1 inch pieces (Again, I used the whole can)

1lb. Spaghetti

1. Heat wine in microwave until steaming. Add raisins and saffron and set aside.

2. In a small skillet, heat 1 1/2 T. Of olive oil over a medium-high heat until shimmering. Add fennel and cook until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add bread crumbs and cook, tossing lightly until toasted. Transfer breadcrumbs to a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

3. Boil water. Mince the fennel and the fonds.

4. In a large skillet, heat 3 T. olive oil over medium heat. Add chopped onion and fennel and cook until soft and tender, approximately 8 minutes.  Add anchovies and cook until dissolved.

5. Add the wine, raisins, saffron and cook, scraping the brown bits til wine is nearly evaporated. 

6. Add toasted pine nuts and sardines for about 2 minutes. Remove from heat. 

7. Cook pasta and reserve the pasta water.

8. Transfer pasta to the skillet with 1/4 c. of the pasta water. (You may need more) Return skillet to medium-high heat. Drizzle on some olive oil and add the fennel fonds. Season with salt and add about 1/2 bread crumbs.  If dry, add more pasta water. 

9. Garnish with more bread crumbs and any leftover fonds

Buon Natale and buon appetito!





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