The Exquisiteness of Sicilian Cuisine, the Harrison Ford Let-Down and Donkeys Too!

 For the last two days, I have been thinking two things: I have to stop eating and I have to buy a pasta machine as soon as I get home. There is so much history and culture on this island, but when I think back on our time in Sicily, I think it will be be about the sure magic of the food. 


I am no slouch when it comes to Italian cuisine. My Italian grandmothers and my mother were wonderful cooks and since having my own family, I have tried to continue those traditions in my own kitchen. We have also visited Italy’s mainland many times and frankly, never had a bad meal.  But in Sicily, food preparation and its  consumption seem to be part of every native’s DNA.  


We have been on the island for five days, and I still can’t stop thinking about my first dinner here, “Pasta Fresca con Sarde.  The simple sauce ladled on fresh pasta included sardines (cooked down so you couldn’t see them), fennel, including the leaves, garlic, onion, pine nuts, parsley, bread crumbs, oil and passolini raisins—whatever they are.  I have been throwing away the tops of fennel stalks for years, never thinking they could be so tasty when added to sauces. Who knew?  Clearly, the Sicilians. Even their “street food” is incredible. While it’s changed over the last few years, traditional American food bought at any city corner mostly consisted of a Sabrett’s on a bun. Here, there are potato croquettes and fried chick-pea squares called “pastalle”that are so good you can make a meal of them.


And then there’s the desserts.  Of course, we Americans are quite familiar with the cannoli, Sicily’s most famous dessert. But here, the cannoli takes a back seat to “cassata,” the traditional dessert of the island, made of sponge cake sweetened ricotta cheese and whipped cream. I have had it twice since arriving, once on our own and once as part of one of the incredible meals on our Backroads trip.  While both were slightly different, I had to hold myself back from licking the plates!  


Here’s why this trip is different: I have found that during our “down time,” instead of reading up on the next day’s activities, I find myself looking for recipes with the hope of replicating some of the meals we experienced while in Sicily once I arrive back in my own kitchen. And thus, the reason why I need to buy a pasta machine.


Yesterday, we were able to see how Sicilian society is able to weave together the old and the new.  For example, to open the hotel room door at our swanky hotel, we only had to hold up our room key to the panel and the door, without touching it, magically opened.  Yet just 30 minutes away, in the Medieval town of  Castelbuono, (which is, by the way, renowned for its delicious panettone!) garbage is still removed from the town’s narrow streets via donkeys because trucks, no matter how small, can pass through them without losing a few side view mirrors—at a minimum. As we hiked up yet another one of Sicily’s hills, we learned about the ancient art of removing the sap of an ash tree to produce “manna,” apparently no relation to the Old Testament version of manna, which I was reminded came from heaven and not a tree. ( I did ask, though). In listening to the virtues of this natural product, it seemed like it could be used to remedy all ills, including as a  sweeten to coffee, as a facial cream when mixed with water and as a remedy for digestive “issues.” Bob thought we should purchase some to potentially rid me of my over-reliance of Tums. Tempting, but no. 


Today, with my Sea Bands already on my wrists, we are off for a three hour drive to the Alcatraz River gorge.  I have been assured by our guide, Ania,  that we are on highways for 2/3 of the journey. It is only the last part in which the Sea Bands will need to kick in because of the windy roads.  I’m not taking any chances—the Bands are not budging from my wrist for the whole journey. 


Bad news about a potential Harrison Ford sighting:  He left the hotel early yesterday morning without any of us seeing him.  Whether or not he climbed “La Rocca” is anyone’s guess. 

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