Greek Ruins, Frank Sinatra and the Sin of Cappuccino at Night

 Today we travelled south to the Mediterranean town of Agrigento, the home of the Greek ruins,  known as the “The Valley of the Temples” and the famous Turkish Steps, a white step-like stone formation that looks like it ends in the sea.  The 2 1/2 hour ride each way was well worth it because our driver, Giovanni, from Viator was probably the best guide we ever had…and he never left the car!  During our drive together, I learned so much about Sicily, including the difference between the polizia and the carabinieri, why it is better to stump olive trees rather than let them grow tall, how to cure black olives (green olives are apparently more complicated and we probably would have needed a longer ride to learn how) that the town Frank Sinatra’s parents were from has an annual “My Way” Festival (pre-COVID, of course), that the film, “The Godfather” was not filmed in Corleone, because it is not a very pretty town and that apparently for two generations, my family and I have been bastardizing the names of Italian Christmas cookies we have made each year.  My cousins and I have to have a discussion about our poor Italian grammar upon our return, or all begin taking Italian 101 pronto!  Grazie, Giovanni. 


When we arrived at the ruin site, we learned that there were no English guides that day and that we would have to use an audio guide. I have nothing against audio guides and in fact, have used them many times in the past.  In this case however, we should have flushed our money down the toilet, because the guide was so bad. At this particular site, there are two or three unbelievable temple ruins that take your breath away. Between them, however, are an awful lot of rocks.  I am sure that they are there to add to the rich history of the time before Christ when the Greeks ruled Sicily, but after listening to the audio guide, it’s anyone’s guess. 


First, we had a map which identified 12 important sites in which to listen to the guide. Would it have killed the Italian government to place an accompanying number next to the particular pile of rubble in which the guide was supposed to be describing? In one particular section, we walked back and forth several times (there were so many piles of rocks) looking completely ridiculous and after listening to #7 three times and still not being sure if we had the right number with the accompanying pile, we just gave up. 


Since our arrival, There seem to be two American traits that I believe the Italians feel make them superior to us: What time we eat dinner and ordering a Cappuccino at night. I really can’t make dinner reservations past 7:30 or at the latest 8:00 pm. Even at that time, I know that there are a few Tums in my future if I don’t want agita (that word, I know is right) all night . All three nights here in Palermo, we were the first people in the restaurants when we arrived at 7:30. Even families with children came in after us! Now, Italians are a very expressive people.  Do the waiters think we don’t see them all looking at each other, raising their shoulders and jerking their heads our way? Subtlety is not their forte. 


And then there’s the coffee at night. I know that the Italians don’t drink cappuccino past noon but as far as I know, it’s not a mortal sin to want milk in your coffee after 12:01 PM.  I don’t even bother ordering it any more because of the stares we have previously received from waiters, and even occasionally from a nearby patron, but Bob, bless his heart, soldiers on and orders it every night. Last night, I thought our young waiter’s eyes were going to pop out of his head when Bob sinned and ordered cappuccino at 8:45 pm. While strongly shaking his head, the young man said, “No,no, we can’t make that.”  I mean, please, there were plenty of dinners on the menu with “crema.” Would it have been so hard to add a little milk to a cup of espresso and make an American happy?  Apparently not!


Tomorrow, we start the hiking part of our trip. The “Double A” of Aleve and Aspercreme are at the ready. Onward to Cefalu on Backroads Tours!

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